Where to stay and what to do in Portofino and Liguria, an insider’s guide
Important Information: This article is for general informational purposes only. All hotels & products featured on our website are independently selected by our editors & contributors. If you book something through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission. Please refer to our full terms and conditions.
When we think of Italy, there’s the images that have become synonymous with summer, from the iconic Aperol spritz to the backdrop of choice that has been the key ‘euro summer’ image across many accounts as we scroll through social media.
What about the other kind of Italy, the less crowded and more authentic, how would you like to take in the incredible views, wake up and take your morning coffee, whilst overlooking the crystal waters, listening to the world go about its business, with nothing more to worry you than what to do that day?
Travelling outside of the Ferragosto is an achievable luxury that is highly recommended, essential even; to see the true Italy, its culture and food; and of course its amazing people.
Let me introduce you to the Italian Autumn… and my insider’s guide to what to do and where to stay in Portofino and Liguria.
Liguria is a crescent-shaped region in northwest Italy, with the south of France and Monaco at its borders. Its Mediterranean coastline is known as the Italian Riviera, and I know it as my second home.
The five colourful fishing villages of the Cinque Terre are at the bottom of the crescent, further up the coast there’s Portofino and Santa Margherita Ligure on the eastern coast and my favourite place, Chiavari sits there in all its sunny glory. The western coast, the Riviera di Ponente, is home to San Remo, a vintage resort with a turn-of-the-century casino and a flower-filled promenade.
From the moment you step off the plane and walk through the marble floored airport you face the Apennines or Ligurian alps, these lush green mountain ranges hold prized Carrara marble (this can be viewed from the autostrada, the precious stone like giant sugar cubes sat in yards waiting to travel to their final stylish destination) and quite often the weather. The hills lying immediately beyond the coast together with the sea account for a mild climate year-round.
It’s in these seaside towns and villages, with their marble churches, unique architecture and beautiful art you’ll find the most unique combination of cuisine, culture and character that is unlike anywhere else.
The food is influenced by what the sea, trees and land provide, from the Trofie al Pesto (traditional pesto and pasta), Acciughe ripiene salate al Limone (stuffed anchovies) to the mouthwatering cakes and pastries that are available in all the bakeries, these are family run mostly; each one unique.
Eating out in this part of Italy is broken up in distinct parts of the day; breakfast is almost always an espresso on the go, with a piece of salty focaccia, still warm and soaked in olive oil.
Unless it’s the weekend, lunch is a light affair. It’s the post work aperitivo that really makes this region stand out, with plates of food that accompany the drinks that are like a meal in themselves, with crudites, breads, cheeses and meats; all complimentary and it almost feels like some bars have taken this to an art form.
If you are not too full after this, dinner is usually late, from what I have learnt from many years and visits here; it is incredibly easy to eat good fresh food. Below are three very different restaurants, one of which I have visited for over 15 years.
Have you been to Portofino and Liguria and found a hidden gem which isn’t on our list? Contact us and let us know.
You might also like to read our 7 day Puglia itinerary or our guide to the most romantic things to do in Tuscany. And if you’re looking for a beautiful Greek island adventure take a look at our guide to the best hotels in Kos and the most romantic things to do.
If you own or work for a hotel, or luxury travel brand find out more about how we can help with luxury travel SEO and digital marketing to raise your online profile.
Wild Bay Co is as much a celebration of the people who make these incredible experiences possible, as it is a celebration of the luxury resorts and hotels themselves. If you’ve stayed somewhere outstanding that deserves recognition for its exceptional attention to detail as well as its stunning setting then contact us and let us know.
Find 5 star hotels in Portofino
Click on the buttons below to browse 5 star hotels, check dates, details, and pricing and book your stay in Portofino on Expedia.
The most delicious authentic Genovese food.
The authentic local secret
Vittorio, Chiavari.
Traditional and delicious
Beginning my what to do and where to stay in Portofino and Liguria guide with a traditional offering, let me introduce Vittorio (aka Dino). We’ve always called it Dino’s. Visit at lunchtime, you are very likely to be queuing for a table if you leave it late, under stone arches away from the main thoroughfare, you will not hear English spoken here; but you will have the most delicious authentic Genovese food, everything is freshly made for you to see, including the huge circle of Farinata (Chickpea based flat bread) in the window on a giant warming plate to the pansotti pasta in walnut sauce, or if carbs aren’t your thing; there’s rabbit, chicken and fish baked in the oven.
Staying on a food and sea theme, just a ten-minute walk away and you are at the sea front. The Ligurian coast really lights up at night; with most local people choosing to eat out later the sparkling lights that shimmer above the promenade that hugs the coastline hover in multiple colours attached to the bars and restaurants from Cinque Terre to San Remo.
A more contemporary take.
The beach Club with the loveliest food and views
Duna Beach, Chiavari.
Amazing cocktails
As well as the more traditional / formal settings for what to do in Portofino and Liguria, there’s a more recent addition of stylish beach clubs. A favourite of ours is Duna Beach and, once again, the food is very good. We ate a more contemporary take on the Ligurian offering, with amazing cocktails.
It’s easy to spend an afternoon here, followed by dinner and the evening DJ means there’s dancing and drinks later on.
What sets Duna beach apart though, is the incredible sunset facing Portofino and the surrounding tree clad hills of its national park.
Discover a more authentic side of Portofino.
A journey to discover authentic local food
La Portofinese, Portofino.
Famously picturesque
On the subject of the national park, La Portofinese is deeply embedded in this. Portofino is known as a famously picturesque fishing village in Italy, the scope of La Portofinese is to take you beyond the famous “piazzetta” and allow you to explore the hillsides, in an exclusive “insider’s experience” involving nature, wellbeing and the delicious local cuisine with tasting of local products.
La Portofinese Eco-Farm is a renewable and self-sustainable farm; you are able to visit the honey bees, the vineyards, olive trees, butterfly garden and much more. These incredible experiences add to the occasion which is your meal, embracing the true “0 kilometre” food movement.
Its windows open out to views over the boats swaying in the clear water.
The apartment with the most exclusive address
Blue, Portofino.
Living like a local
With this exclusive insider’s experience of what to do and where to stay in Portofino and Liguria in mind, why not stay at Blue by PortofinoHomes in Portofino.
This truly is the most perfect example of living like a local. The interior is a beautiful combination of minimal hues and azure blues, with modern and traditional touches.
This apartment is directly above the “piazetta” of Portofino, its windows open out to views over the boats swaying in the clear water, surrounded by the shops and restaurants; imagine waking up to this incredible view before the tourists arrive.
Owned by a local family, this home from home has all the stylish amenities you need, alongside the best view in the harbour, via two bedrooms, a well-equipped kitchen and a light filled dining / lounge area, that would host four people.
The restaurant directly below, Ristorante Puny, is popular with locals and celebrities alike.
Stay at Blue by PortofinoHomes
Click on the buttons below to check dates, details, and pricing and book your stay at Blue by PortofinoHomes on Booking.com
Even the journey up the driveway is breathtaking.
The epitome of Italian glamour
Belmond Hotel Splendido, Portofino.
Iconic hotel
Hotel Splendido is literally minutes from Blue, but very different in it’s offering, this is one of the world’s most iconic hotels. In a prime position embedded in the National Park, this former monastery was converted to a hotel in 1902 and has been the byword for Italian glamour ever since.
This is definitely a hotel that if you can, you should visit. The staff, the views, the food; nothing is too much, and yet everything is more beautiful than you’d ever see in a photo, even the journey up the driveway is breathtaking.
The terrace overlooking the iconic saltwater pool is the perfect place to sit, whether it’s sipping your first cappuccino of the day or your last drink of the evening.
The cool interiors provide welcome rest from the Mediterranean sun in the summer months. The exteriors via the beach club and it’s Dior upholstered loungers resplendent with plump cushions create the perfect back drop as you gaze over the Tigullio bay.
The rooms are the perfect combination of contemporary style, reimagined by interior designer Martin Brudnizki, with traditional Ligurian frescos, antiques and a pastel palette of velvets and crisp cottons.
Stay at Splendido, A Belmond Hotel
Click on the buttons below to check dates, details, and pricing and book your stay at Splendido on Expedia.
Surrounded by olive groves and ancient stone remains.
Classic Luxury, traditional neighbourhood, epic sunset views
Villa Riviera Resort, Lavagna.
Beautiful sunsets
If you are looking to stay within a more traditional neighbourhood, but with the modern amenities of a luxury resort Villa Riviera is the perfect place.
Villa Riviera situated in Lavagna, half way between Cinque Terre and Portofino, its infinity pool takes in the whole view of the gulf.
The main body of the hotel is made up of two traditional villas surrounded by olive groves and ancient stone remains, with two restaurants and an outdoor spa. The accommodation of 15 rooms is split between Villa 800 and Villa 900.
Historical frescos combined with contemporary styling is make it the perfect combination to frame the incredible view from each of the rooms, the two restaurants showcase the incredible local cuisine and the gardens are the perfect backdrop for those beautiful sunsets.
Stay at Villa Riviera Resort
Click on the buttons below to check dates, details, and pricing and book your stay at Villa Riviera Resort on Expedia.
Related Articles
Related
Things to do in Phuket and where to stay: a luxury traveller’s guide
As an expat living in Thailand, I have extensively explored the country and Phuket is one of the best places for luxury resorts, wellness, cuisine and activities, offering endless things to do in Phuket and places to stay. It’s Thailand’s biggest island, made up of beautiful beaches and many different areas to see, from the vibrant Patong to the laidback Rawai in the south of the island.
Unique hotels and things to do in Ubud and Canggu, Bali: a luxury travel writer’s guide
Over the years, I’ve explored Bali extensively and on my travels I’ve discovered some of the most gorgeous unique hotels and amazing things to do in Ubud and Canggu in particular, two places that totally captured my heart. Only two hours apart, they could not feel more different — Ubud is renowned for its serene rice terraces, lush jungle, and spiritual calm, while Canggu embraces sun-soaked beaches, surf culture, and modern-chic energy.
Where to stay in Vietnam: Hoi An timeless charm and beachfront paradise in Quy Nhon
As one of Southeast Asia’s most captivating destinations, Vietnam is a country full of history, culture, and landscapes waiting to be discovered. With 28 provinces stretching from misty northern mountains to sun-drenched southern islands, each carries its own story and there are some amazing options when choosing where to stay in Vietnam.
